11 May, 2007, Friday (Day 21) - San Miniato Alto. Despite Carl's best effort, seven zero zero became seven three zero. Not my doing this time because we left on time (i.e. Just a few minutes after seven), but had gotten only about 50 meters when Claire and Cesare insisted on stopping for breakfast at a bar.

I left Altopascio with a heavy heart because I missed the town's bread festival by a day. I was cheered up quickly though because after 4.5 kilometers on asphalt we veered off onto a path that snakes through a mini-forest along the traces of an ancient piece of the Via Francigena.

We passed through Fucecchio, which had the flags of the different neighborhoods flying in preparation for the local horse race on May 20 that is similar to Siena's famous Palio.

No serious climbs until the ascent into San Miniato Alto and no stunning views of the Tuscan countryside until we were up in the town. We are housed near the top of San Miniato at the San Francesco Convent (paying a relatively small fee, the other times at the convents where we stayed the payment was by donation).

In San Miniato we said goodbye to Cesare, who walked-biked along side us for five days. His kindness and constant good spirits will be missed by the three of us as we continue south towards Rome.

Somebody who has never done a long multi-day hike may be wondering what the heck pilgrims talk about to pass the time under the scorching mid-day Tuscan sun. Example from today: we find a porcupine needle and somebody (me) had the grand idea to see who could come up with the most ways a pilgrim could make use of this rare find. Yes, a wonderful idea that in the ranking of wonderful ideas comes in just behind Carl's suggestion the other day that we detour for a dip in the sea.

I won my own game. I love when that happens though Claire ruined my celebration by suggesting that my victory was tainted because I was contestant, judge and jury and this was relevant because my last answer came after time had expired.

Ways a pilgrim can use a porcupine needle:

Eric - finger nail cleaner, toothpick, q-tip, pen for the touch screen on a hand-held computer (like the one I am using right now).

Claire - back-scratcher, as part of a Native American head-dress, knitting needle

Carl - safety pin, chop sticks

Cesare - pen, hair pin

Someday I'll redo the Via Francigena, it will be well marked, pilgrims won't be a novelty and I'll have time to pursue my other project, compiling a list of the best gelateria in every town along the route. For starters, I'm sorted for San Miniato Alto: Gelateria Camilla (the town is small, you'll find it).

Tip for the day: dinner at La Loggia if you sleep in Altopascio.

Trip details: Altopascio to San Miniato, 23.3 K. Altitude change: 287 meters up and 258 meters down. Walked so far: 598.7 K. Left to Rome: 321.8 K.

State of the route: a microcosm of the entire Via Francigena, beautiful pieces going through pretty villages followed by stretches on busy roads with no shoulder. There are a few small pieces that run along what remains of the Medieval path. Almost always well marked.

Weather report: overcast until about 9:30 then there was a brilliant sun. 18 degrees C on departure at 7:30 a.m. and 26 on arrival at 2 p.m.

Medical report: all good.