6 May, 2007, Sunday, (Day 16) - Aulla. Carl and Claire wanted to leave at 6, the Italian (Cesare) and the three foreigners who call Italy home (Joakim, Otta and me) wanted 8, the compromise made over dinner last night was 7:45 and the actual departure time was 8:30. Chalk one up for Italy.

We slept wonderfully in the Cappuccini Convent in Pontremoli where Padre Franco treated us nicely and gave us small single rooms. In the morning we couldn't find him for a final goodbye, but he surprised us 20 minutes into the walk by pulling up in a car so that he could wish us well.

Tip of the day: Pasticceria Ricco' is a must for bread, sweets, testaroli or other local products (there is one in the center of town and one several kilometers away on the road to Aulla). Marisa Ricco' runs the place and when you stop by you'll be glad her family decided at the last minute not to immigrate to the States 40 years ago.

Soon after Ricco' is the beautiful Pieve di Sorano, a church that has been located in a strategic spot for many centuries. The lush green hills contrasted all day with the encroaching flatlands to make for spectacular scenery. There was also the occasional vineyard to pass as well as lots of forest land, some of which was overgrown making it difficult to find the trail.

"Look at how this trail has degenerated, not even a wild boar could pass here." These are the words of Adolfo Armanetti, who owns land in the area and is part of a group - COAF - that helps maintain the trails.

Cesare, Otta and Joakim leave the Swiss and me at Filetto, after which the three of us pass through Lusuolo and Barbarasco on our way to Aulla. Don Giovanni (yes, that is what he goes by) receives us with open arms and gives us a tour of the remains of the recently excavated 1,000-year old church that pre-dated the current church.

Aulla on a Sunday night is not the maximum if you are looking for food choices and we are forced to settle for a take-away pizza. Lucky for us the pizza-maker is nice and his four year old Diego is entertaining.

Trip details: Pontremoli to Aulla, 27K, altitude change: 210 meters up and 385 meters down (estimated because I forgot to set the altimeter until 3 hours into the walk).

State of the route: first 8K on the margins of a state road (SS) though there was little traffic because it was Sunday morning. Then we were on very nice unmarked trails in the forest and fields for about 7K after which it was un-trafficked asphalt roads. The last 2-3K into Aulla were on a terrible SS that was as bad as the Via Emilia in the worst spots.

Weather report: cloudy, a bit of drizzle now and again. 11 degrees C on departure at 8:30 and 22 on arrival at 6 p.m.

Medical report: all good, nothing of note.