Wednesday, 2 May 2007 (Day 12), Fidenza - Risking your life with somebody is a great way to bond. No need to spend a few years nurturing a friendship, just walk with them for ten kilometers on the SS 9 and if you both live to tell the story what a story it's going to be.

Instead of : remember that time we went running with the bulls in Pamplona? It'll be: remember that time we were walking with the 18-wheelers on the SS 9 between Piacenza and Fidenza?

We've known each other now for all of 48 hours, but having survived the SS 9 together I think I can officially call Carl and Claire (the two Franco-German Swiss, from now on to be referred to only as the Swiss) friends. Carl is 25, Claire 22, they live in Lausanne, have an older brother and a younger one as well. More personal information (if they agree) in my soon-to-be book.

Lots of rain until about 2:30 pm but what really soaked us was the traipsing through the wet fields. My feet were so drenched for so long in the boots that I didn't even have to do the ritual relaxing soaking when I arrived in Fidenza.

In Fideza I meet Massimo Tedeschi, the chairman of the association that groups most of the Italian towns along the Via Francigena, to hear what improvements are planned for the trail. It seems the government in Rome has recently assigned the project for the making of the signs that will mark the route all over Italy. By yearend the signs should start going up.

Lots more flat plains today with the usual cultivated fields though our views were limited due to the low rain clouds.

Dinner (trofie with almonds and radichio flowed by a large plate of grilled meat and vegetables and topped off with tiramisu) came from a tasty and abundant restaurant in Fidenza where I went with the parents of a close friend.

I write this from the Cappuccini Convent, where Carl, Claire and I have each been given a wonderfully silent single room. With two of the clergy (not sure on the titles) I just finished watching Milan cream Manchester United 3-0 in the Champions League semi-final game.

Trip details: Montale to Fidenza, 40.5K (includes 5K when lost), altitude change: 173 meters up and 171 meters down.

State of the route: the first 8K to Fiorenzuola on the SS 9 often with no shoulder. We got lost just after Fiorenzuola and for 90 minutes wandered the cultivated fields (being careful not to step on the crops) and back roads until giving up and working our way back to the SS 9. From there it was 15K to Fidenza. (It seems there is an internal unmarked route that avids the busy SS9.)

Weather report: wet, 14 degrees C on departure at 6:15 am (yes, that's the correct time...my walking partners are Swiss after all), 23 on arrival at 5:30 pm.

Medical report: excellent, not one single painful blister. Right knee hurt only briefly a few times. The general level of fatigue is much, much less than in previous days.