13 May 2009, Ascoli Satriano (Foggia) – I have this great idea for a coffee table book, one of those really huge ones that you need both hands to pick up from the table. Large glossy photos, very little text and a sappy dedication. In short, the classic book you open when it is given to you and then never again. I already have the title: “Declarations of Love Along the Southern Via Francigena.”

The phenomenal expressiveness of Italians – from the gesticulating arms to the facial contortions – is famous the world over. But did you know Italians (probably those under the age of 18) make a point of publicly expressing their love for each other across the country on everything from freeway underpasses to building walls and lampposts? Neither did I, but walking south from Rome over the past 13 days we have come across countless expressions of love, some mundane and others nothing short of terrific.

I’ve never had somebody declare their love for me with spray paint on a trash bin, but I’d melt if it did happen. While I wait for that special moment and until I get the book published, I have been posting a photo of a declaration of love everyday here on the site. Today a few extras including one we found on our entry into Ascoli where we have just arrived. 

We have picked the perfect time of year to be passing through this hilly part of Puglia. There are green fields of grain swaying in the wind in every direction and an impressive amount of wildflowers running the gamut from red to purple, green and yellow. There are also many wind turbines that have a certain majestic quality as they sit there on the hillsides turning in the wind.

The wind has been very welcoming as everyday seems to be hotter than the previous. While the first five days we tried to leave early (never managing to push Sam out on the road before 9) in a bid to get to our destination before the afternoon rain, we are now hitting the road by about 730 as we try to beat the heat. It’s a losing battle as the sun is already high on the horizon and scorching by 9.

Ascoli is another one of those hilltop towns that you see from miles and miles away and the more you walk the farther it seems to get. One more day of walking east to Cerignola before we make a sharp turn to the southeast towards Bari, where we expect to arrive on Monday.