9 May 2009, Just past Alvignano (Caserta) – (from Sam) What does it mean to you when someone says “I traveled 45.3 kilometers today”? Perhaps you would think it means that they had a pleasant 40 minute spin in their hybrid car or that they went out on their bike for a couple of hours. Well, to me 45.3 kilometers means 3,500 calories burned, nine hours and six minutes walking, two blisters, two aching feet and one knee that feels like it’s about to burst. And I feel great.

45.3 kilometers is a personal best for both me and Elina and I can assure you that there were moments when we were both believing that there would be nothing sweeter in this whole world than to stick out our thumbs and hitch a ride to our destination. But, obviously, we didn’t. My mother always taught me never to talk to strangers or get into cars with strange men. And that advice seems sensible enough for me.

So, we soldiered on, all four of us for the first time in our lives seriously thinking about how we would much rather be at work. Yet, the sense of accomplishment at rounding the final bend and climbing that final hill to our evening’s lodging was immense and certainly a sensation that I would pay good money for next time (rather than going through all the effort again to get it).

The walk itself was quite beautiful and, although a map will tell you otherwise, we are deep into the beautiful region of Campania. We are enjoying its vast and varied views - hilly countryside, Vespa-driving kids, overweight Italian men and, as Borat would say, women who are “strong with plough.” The region is also home to the Camorra, the Neapolitan mafia, which has extensive international reach and was recently brought to greater notoriety following the publication of Roberto Saviano’s “Gamorra”. The Camorra was also recently blamed for prolonging Naples’ refuse problem. Unfortunately, rubbish continues to be a serious problem in Naples, although when I use the term “rubbish” here, I am referring to the Naples football club, Napoli.

Today we are off to Solopaca, which, thanks to fruits of our long haul yesterday, should be a much less intense walk.

Finally, you may have recently read that Eric had a few problems locating a toilet seat, well from now on I will provide you all with a toilet seat report, so that you can feel comfortable that Eric is, well, comfortable. Today’s toilet seat report – yes, we have a toilet seat.